Visiting the tallest stupa in the world
I’ve got lots of cool links this week and my monthly update is first up, so let’s get into it.
~ James
Where I’m At: August, 2017 – Saigon edition
Where I’m At; August, 2017 – Saigon edition. A monthly update of what I’ve been up to, site news, and where I’m going next.
Greetings from Saigon! I’m back in the home base after a month on the road, so here is a recap of the month that was.
Where I’ve Been
Seoul
My month began in Seoul, where I stayed for a week. Having spent so much time in disorderly Southeast Asian cities, spending time in an efficient and organised city felt like a holiday. I forget how much I like East Asian travel in general, so I should make more time for travel in the region.
I had never been before so I did more sightseeing than usual. I was fortunate to have good summer weather, which added to my high estimation of the city. It must be grim in the winter months, which is why I usually avoid winter travel.
I wrote two posts about Seoul (see below).
Hong Kong
Hong Kong was a bonus stop. I had already booked a flight from Hong Kong to Bangkok when I was planning a southern China trip. The China trip didn’t work so I was stuck with an nonrefundable ticket. I flew from Seoul to Hong Kong to not let the ticket go to waste. Rather than flying straight through, I took the opportunity to stay in Hong Kong for a day.
I’m usually in Hong Kong once a year, and this was my second visit in 2017. I try to avoid falling into the trap of going to the same old places, so I seek new cafes and eateries. That’s hard to do when you accumulate a list of favourite places and you only have a short time. I found a new cafe at Urban Coffee Roaster, which now makes visiting a new cafe on my next Hong Kong visit a little harder.
I also went to Kai Kai Dessert, which won a Michelin Star for its glutinous rice dumplings in ginger sweet soup. I don’t know enough about food to be giving out awards, so I can’t tell you if it’s Michelin-worthy. What I do know is that this dessert is amazing and you should put it on your list of things to eat in Hong Kong. The evil landlords jacked up their rent when they won the award, so they have to sell 11,000 bowls every month just to pay the rent. So go and help them stay open for another month.
Bangkok
On average I spend about 2 weeks a year in Bangkok, either on the way to somewhere else, or just to hang out. This year I timed my trip to get a new passport, which had run out of clean pages. It’s easier to get it at the Australian embassy in Bangkok than in Vietnam, and it saves me a trip back to Australia to renew.
Kanchanaburi
With two weeks spare while waiting for my new passport I figured I should go somewhere in Thailand I haven’t been. I also wanted to do some more train travel research, so Kanchanaburi was an obvious choice.
Kanchanaburi is famous for its bridge over the river Kwai. Even though it is not the bridge, there are many historical monuments related to the war.
The Commonwealth War Graves is in Kanchanaburi town, so I went to pay respects to my fellow Australians. In Australia you read a lot about Allied POW’s on the Death Railway. Rarely do you read about the impressed workers from Southeast Asia, which some estimate up to 150,000 died while building the line.
Hua Hin
Hua Hin was a last minute decision based on the need to see a beach before going back to Bangkok.
I like that Hua Hin is a normal city on a beach, rather than being a resort town that exists for servicing a beach. There is a great night market, and the beach sand is good for long walks.
Hua Hin is 200km south of Bangkok yet it takes 3 hours in a speed-racing mini van, and over 4 hours for the fastest train. Bangkok-Hua Hin is an ideal candidate for a high speed train, which has been proposed many times.
Latest posts from Nomadic Notes
Kanchanaburi to Hua Hin by train (with a bonus stop at the tallest stupa in the world)
Kanchanaburi to Hua Hin by train via Nakhon Pathom, where you can see the tallest stupa in the world.
Travel Reads
These absurd photos of young travelers on the ‘Hippie Trail’ raise a lot of questions
“In the 1960s and 70s, intrepid European and American naifs were traipsing the backroads of South Asia on an unofficial network of cheap hostels and budget bus fleets known as the Hippie Trail.”
Life on the Road
“An Indian writer and an American photographer spend three months on the road hitch-hiking with truck drivers in India.”
Cambodia’s most important ecosystem, the Tonle Sap, is in crisis. Is the damage past the point of no return?
“Cambodia’s most important ecosystem is in crisis, experts say. Millions rely on the Tonle Sap lake for food and irrigation, and its destruction would have repercussions across the whole Kingdom. What can be done?”
Life Inside Hong Kong’s ‘Coffin Cubicles’
“Pushed out by the sky-high prices of rent in glittering Hong Kong, these people get by in illegally subdivided apartments.”
Papua: Poverty and Death in Indonesia's Land of Gold
“The recent shooting of Papuan villagers by Indonesian police highlights the abuse and injustices faced by the indigenous peoples of Papua.”
The Forgotten Legacy of World War Two in Northern Thailand
“Thailand was dragged into the Second World War on December 8th 1941. Due to the time difference, the Japanese Navy mounted an assault on Thailand’s southern coast about the same time as they attacked Pearl Harbour on December 7th.”
How Yangon's colonial buildings are being given a new lease of life
“Local entrepreneurs in Yangon are finally restoring the city’s colonial-era glories, turning them into restaurants, galleries and homes.”
Surfer girls make waves and defy expectations in Bangladesh
“In Bangladesh’s only beach town, there are just a handful of girls who ride the waves. In fact, most people there frown upon seeing girl surfers, who have faced threats from conservative Muslims in the neighborhood. But surfing makes them feel empowered when they might otherwise be expected to assume traditional roles and marry before they become adults.”
Chongqing metro stop is China's loneliest station
“When you emerge at Caojiawan metro station near busy Chongqing, China, you are out in the middle of nowhere. But there’s a reason it’s been built.”
Inside China’s Plan For A Massive Forest-Covered City
“Architect Stefano Boeri designed tree-covered skyscrapers in Milan. Now he’s doing a lot more in Liuzhou, China.”
Qantas’ 1986 style guide is all class
“Qantas has been rummaging through its archives and unearthed an absolute pearler — its style guide for flight crew from the very unforgiving year of 1986.”
Photography
2017 National Geographic Travel Photographer of the Year
“See the winning photos from the 2017 National Geographic Travel Photographer of the Year.”
The ISS and the moon: A perfectly-timed photo of the moon puts humanity's achievements in perspective
“The International Space Station is the size of a football field. But a stunning image by Spanish photographer Dani Caxete shows it as a tiny figure dwarfed by the moon—a jaw-dropping reminder of the magnificence of nature, and the persistence of human achievement.”
21 Incredible Photos Of Bali In 1970's With No Tourist In Sight
“Can you imagine The Island Of The Gods without a single tourist?”
20+ Creative Leaning Tower of Pisa Pictures Using Forced Perspective
“The Leaning Tower of Pisa is a hugely popular tourist site; people love taking forced perspective photos. See 20+ funny Leaning Tower of Pisa pictures here.”
Travel Gear
Ex-Google SVP: iPhone 7 Marks 'End of DSLR Era,' Is Years Ahead of Android
“Former Google SVP Vic Gundotra has glowing things to say about his iPhone 7’s photo capabilities, claiming that the phone marks “the end of the DSLR era for most people” and that it’s years ahead of Android smartphone cameras.”
I am overdue for a major gear upgrade for my laptop, mobile phone, and camera. One thing I have been considering is if I just get the very best mobile phone and use as my camera. I read this article about how two BBC journalists filmed a news package for television with a smartphone which is swaying my decision.
Southeast Asia Railways
News related to future Southeast railways.
Circular railway upgrade project to start in October
“The upgrading of the Circular railway is going to start in October 2017 said Myanma Railway deputy general manager U Zaw Lwin, as part of the governent’s efforts to improve public transportation.”
Not a new project, the the iconic Circular railway of Yangoon will be getting an upgrade.
Video
Thirty minutes at Shinagawa station, Tokyo, as captured by @sigeyosiinoue
I once made the mistake of trying to get on the metro during peak hour in Tokyo. This time-lapse is a mesmerising view of Tokyo in transit.