Nomadic Notes Newsletter - Chiang Mai Edition
A weekly newsletter of great travel reads and links by James Clark from Nomadic Notes.
Greetings from Chiang Mai! I’ve been here for nearly two weeks on a visa run from Vietnam. In that time I’ve completed a new map of current and proposed railways of Southeast Asia.
[Click here for larger image.]
I have more maps on the way, so stay tuned or follow updates on the Southeast Asia railways page.
Where I’ve Been
The month began at Tokyo where I finished up my brief trip on behalf of Tokyo Tourism Australia. As the trip originated from Australia I had to go back to Australia as well for one day. So I was in Sydney for a day which was kind of weird to be in Sydney and not Melbourne.
Singapore
My flight from Sydney to Saigon was with Singapore Airlines, who offer a free stopover in Singapore, so why not make a stop. There is always something new to see there so I take any chance to revisit.
Saigon
I was back in Saigon for two weeks where I still have a rented room. I’m doing some research on some future developments there, and I went to one of the new parks that has opened along the river. It’s a rarity to see a new park open in a city, especially in Southeast Asia where public space is increasingly encroached upon. The exception is the Gardens By The Bay in Singapore, which is reclaimed land that has been turned into a world-class park.
The new park in Saigon is Vinhomes Central Park, which is named after the developer and some park in New York. Despite the cheesy name this is a great park and a welcome addition to the city. It is surrounded by the new Vinhomes apartment developments and the Landmark 81 tower, which will soon become the tallest building in Southeast Asia.
Hong Kong
Hong Kong, again! This was my third trip to Hong Kong this year, which is not a bad thing. This time it was a convenient departure city from Saigon for a visa run.
Shanghai
I had another trip planned which included departing from Shanghai, which I booked from Hong Kong. That trip fell through, but I decided to keep the Hong Kong and Shanghai portion of my trip. There is a free transit visa for 144 hours in Shanghai for many countries, so I took advantage of this. At the airport I was the only passenger in the transit-visa queue, so that was a bonus.
My trip to Shanghai was over a weekend, so I went unplugged for the weekend and didn’t get a VPN. Google (including Google Maps), Facebook, Twitter are blocked, and messenging services like Whatsapp were blocked while I was there during the Communist Party’s congress. I kept looking at my phone out of habit, which had been rendered into a bulky pocket watch.
I was in China earlier this year and I’m still amazed at how fast China is developing. Mobile payment is everywhere now, and it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that cash is dying. The future has arrived in China, and I’m not sure I like what I see. I plan to be in China again next year, so a VPN will be essential.
My first trip to Shanghai was ten years ago, and the skyline of Pudong (pictured above) was still being built out. This was the first time I have seen Pudong without any cranes in the sky. It’s interesting to come here while living in Saigon, as there is an undeveloped side of the river in Saigon that is being called “the Pudong of Vietnam”. Pudong was farmland in the 80’s, and now it has one of the biggest skylines in the world.
Chiang Mai
Shanghai to Chiang Mai is a four hour flight. I was happy to find a direct flight which avoided having to pass through one of the Bangkok airports (where I was stuck for 90 minutes getting a passport stamp on my last visit). It took me 5 minutes to get my passport stamped in Chiang Mai, and about the same time to get my bag. This is a much better way to arrive in Thailand.
I posted on the rail map how the two airports in Bangkok may get linked to U-Tapao airport (near Pattaya) on the one railway. With Qatar announcing flights to Pattaya in addition to Chiang Mai, this could be a game-changer for arriving in Thailand. Anyway, that’s probably years away.
I used to spend more time in Chiang Mai before basing in Saigon. It’s a great place to work, especially at this time of year when the mornings are cool and the air is clear. And now that Vietjet have direct flights from Saigon to Chiang Mai, I might be back here more often. I’m now waiting for direct flights from Saigon to Bali to add to the collection.
Latest posts from Nomadic Notes
I’m currently working on some transport posts that is taking up most of my time, so no new posts this week. Expect a big post next week. In the meantime, here is an article I published this week on Asia Times regarding the currency of Vietnam.
Time for Vietnam to lop zeros off its currency
The Vietnamese dong is one of the highest-denominated currencies in the world. At the time of writing 1 US dollar was equal to 22,728 dong. It takes US$44 to become a dong millionaire.
Good Reads
What Mongolian Nomads Teach Us About the Digital Future
“I trekked with nomads. Their attitude about possessions presages a new age of traveling light.”
After Vietnam War, Here’s What Happened When A U.S. Army Intel Officer Returned To Track Down An Enemy Spy
“A U.S. Army intel officer returns to Vietnam, chasing the enemy spymaster who beat him, hoping to learn more about why America lost the war.”
I’ve met a number of war veterans who who have returned to Vietnam, and I always find their stories interesting. This one is a cracking read.
The Ghosts of the Tsunami
“The 2011 earthquake and tsunami killed thousands in Japan. Those left behind were haunted by the dead, and some were possessed by them.”
I’m not saying I believe in ghosts, but if you live in Asia for long enough you become attentive to ancestor worship and the spirit world.
Vikings Razed the Forests. Can Iceland Regrow Them?
“The country lost most of its trees long ago. Despite years of replanting, it isn’t making much progress.”
Beyond Catalonia: pro-independence movements in Europe
“Nationhood and autonomy are issues that transcend north-east Spain, with numerous efforts elsewhere to redraw the map of Europe.”
Travel Lists
Best in Travel 2018 - Lonely Planet
“What are the best destinations to visit in 2018? Lonely Planet’s travel experts reveal all…”
When it comes to travel lists, Lonely Planet and The New York Times have come to be the biggest annual lists. Not that I take any stock in such lists, but they are interesting to see where they pick and the reactions they elicit (hello, Canberra!)
China
I was in Shanghai last week it’s apparent from my brief visit that the future has arrived in China. I’m not sure I like all of what I see, but it’s here and it can’t be ignored.
This Is What A 21st-Century Police State Really Looks Like
“Far from the booming metropolis of Beijing, China is building a sprawling system that combines dystopian technology and human policing. “It’s a kind of frontline laboratory for surveillance.””
China's Communist Party is all in on the power of technology, and that's tricky for its tech giants
“At the 19th party congress, president Xi Jinping said in a speech that sets the tone for the years ahead that China would “develop a market-oriented system for technological innovation in which enterprises are the main players.””
Big data meets Big Brother as China moves to rate its citizens
“The Chinese government plans to launch its Social Credit System in 2020. The aim? To judge the trustworthiness – or otherwise – of its 1.3 billion residents.”
The best job in the world?
The New York Times wants to hire a journalist to travel the world
“We are seeking candidates who will explore every destination on our list of 52 Places to Go.”
This is a pretty amazing job that has been doing the rounds. If you are a travel writer and can commit to a year then apply by October 31.
For avocado toast eaters everywhere: A definitive guide to THAT New York Times gig
“Want to know if you’ve got what it takes to land the best job ever in the history of the world? Scroll down to the flowchart.”
This flowchart for said travel job maybe useful in your decision to apply.
Southeast Asia Railways
News related to Southeast Asia railways, as part of the Future Southeast Asia Map project.
Hearings on airport rail link connecting three Thai airports
“The country’s two busiest airports, Don Mueang and Suvarnbhumi could be linked by a high-speed railway with U-Tapao airport in Rayong.”
Shanghai, China.
Nomadic Notes Partners
Nomadic Notes is partnered with the following sites. I use and recommend these travel booking sites when planning my travels.
Book Accommodation: Agoda
Find Flights: Skyscanner
Travel insurance: World Nomads
Booking via these links will not cost you extra, and they will help keep Nomadic Notes running. Thanks for reading!